Braving the Cold for Carnaval

Stephen and Kay had taken pity on me as I was on poorly cat sitting duty, with Amanda back in the UK for her brothers wedding. They’d invited me to accompany them on a trip to Ribadeo to witness Carnaval, and as I gladly accepted the offer of company I was fearing the worst.

The last ‘procession’ event that we’d attended was the arrival of the Three Kings in A Pontenova in January which was somewhat of an anti-climax as a single small flat-bed van did three laps of the town at break-neck speed while the three kings held on with white knuckles, expect the blacked-up lady ‘king’ who held on with blacked-up knuckles.

As I accepted the invite I was expecting a couple of tractors and a donkey, and perhaps a bit of tinsel, and then we could retire to the warmth of one of Ribadeo’s many cafes for a nice cup of coffee and perhaps some tapas.

It was scheduled to start at 5pm and as we arrived ‘on the dot’, Ribadeo was heaving. The streets were lined with people and in the distance we could see the start of the procession heading our way, led by a band of a dozen or so musicians.

The whole procession took an hour and forty minutes to pass us and must have contained the entire population of Ribadeo and their friends from neighbouring villages.

It was most impressive, gave us a chuckle (especially the straight-legged walking Lego men who looked like they’d had a ‘toilet accident’), and despite the cold it did manage to register quite highly on the ‘we were entertained’ scale.

I liked; the Pirates (including the guy with a stepladder lifting the bunting so that the mast didn’t snag), kids in picture frames illustrating all of Ribadeo’s festivals, the ambulance and medics operating on a patient who was smoking a cigarette, little red riding hood and the big bad wolf, and the ‘Priscilla Queen of the Desert’ camp float.






As the cold started to bite we retired to the promised cafe for a warm and a coffee or three.

Shame Amanda missed it, but there’s always next year.


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What goes bang in the Galician night?

It was just after midnight last Friday as the three of us settled into bed, Bonita assuming her ever-present role as a highly effective feline contraceptive, stretched between us and condemning Amanda and I each to our own peripheral eight inches of mattress. The fire was raked and safe, the lights were off, and the TV was playing the third disc of a thirty-three disc box set of ‘Homicide:Life on the Streets’ when we heard a dull, but distant, bang.

I went upstairs to investigate (our barn is upside down) with the full expectation that a bottle had fallen off a worktop onto the floor, concerned that we’d acquired a poltergiest, or at a stretch, that we’d been broken into. But there was nothing to discover and after a few seconds looking around I went back to the DVD and we thought nothing else of it. Nothing else until the following morning.

Wall_Collapse_2015smallAfter four days of incessant rain I’d decided to brave the drizzle and do some outdoor work, so togged up in my scruffs I headed to the big house to get some tools and prioritise the days tasks.

As I passed the entrance to the bread-oven house I was stopped in my tracks. The area that Amanda and I had painstakingly cleared was again full of rubble and clay. Seemingly the rain had collapsed a high wall, newly exposed to the elements after being stripped of thirty years of protective ivy. ‘So that was the bang’, I muttered to myself as the days labouring priority suddenly changed to moving a couple of tonnes of stone and cleaning a load of soggy yellow clay.

I tutted to myself, cursed under my breath, decided what I’d need from the tool store and continued towards the big house. But as I approached the front door I was greeted by the strangest of buzzing noises. I looked for wasps, birds and electrical shorts but eventually my eyes rested on the water meter which was spinning uncontrollably, almost too fast to see with the human eye. ‘That’s not right’, I thought.

Roof_Hole_2015smallI turned off the stop tap by the meter and started the search for what must have been a collossal leak.

It turned out to be in the old milking stalls area, the part of the old house closest to the barn. And here I found a possible second reason for the previous nights big bang.

A two metre square hole had appeared in the roof and a large pile of slates and wood had descended two storeys, rupturing a water pipe on their journey, and creating a water feature where no water feature should be.

What was going to be a nice day pottering  around and preparing for the impending construction jobs had turned into a day of hard labour, of shovelling detritus, and of using tarpaulins to protect ancient beams now newly exposed to the elements.

And we’re still no wiser as to which of these disturbed our Friday night DVD watching.

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Our first Galician Christmas

By our past UK standards we had a very busy Christmas, despite Galicia not feeling at all Christmassy. There is very little of the UK’s bloated festive commercialism here, instead it is a time for families, eating well and having the odd party (which last the entire night).

The main celebrations take place on Christmas Eve (Noche Buena), New Years Eve (Nuevo Ano) and the evening of the 5th January (Los Reyes). Although Christmas day itself is a holiday there are no real celebrations as although Santa does visit, he leaves just a single small gift, with the major present giving courtesy of the three Kings on Epiphany.

We’d planned to be a bit Spanish, presents excepted, and have a slap-up dinner on Christmas Eve followed by a picnic on the beach (or in the car if it was too cold to sit out) on Christmas Day. Then in a lapse of concentration Amanda invited one of our Spanish friends, Dolores, to join us for Christmas Day lunch.

And then, of course, we’d no option but to go the whole hog and cook turkey with all the trimmings.

Despite a colossal Christmas shop (and not all of the expenditure on alcohol), we were still short of a few crucial ingredients. We’d got a turkey (thanks to Lidl), but were short of bread sauce and stuffing, but the biggest impeding disaster was an incomprehensible scarcity of sprouts.

The stuffing emergency was resolved thanks to our friends Stephen and Kay, whose sister had come for Christmas armed with two packets of Paxo, one of which was kindly gifted to us saving me processing loads of chestnuts and scouring the countryside on the almost impossible task of finding some sage.

Cloves, also provided by Stephen, and bay leaves picked from our own land, allowed me to make my own bread sauce which tasted very average on Christmas eve when I made it, but which matured brilliantly overnight in the fridge, to be just as good as I’d hoped when re-heated on Christmas Day.

The last missing ingredients were the sprouts which we managed to locate in the fourth Ribadeo greengrocers shop that we visited, almost on the verge of abandoning the quest. Here, I acquired all that they had left (two for Dolores, one for Amanda, and enough to sink a battleship for me) for a measly sixty-three cents.


Everything came together perfectly, even without Heinz Salad Cream for the Marie Rose sauce to compliment the lovely big Galician prawns in a cocktail. It was all washed down by a superb 1994 Rioja Grand Reserva which had travelled back to Spain from England when we moved here.

Dolores loved the stuffing, bread sauce and Yorkshire puddings (which we threw in for good measure) and declared the whole thing delicious. She was somewhat bemused by the Christmas crackers (again imported), and didn’t get the jokes, but was amused by her ‘gift’ of a hair-grip despite having hair almost as short as mine, and Amanda being gifted a ‘whoopee cushion’.

On the Saturday after Christmas we were invited to our architects for a pre-New Years Eve, New Years Eve party (as they were going to be in Iceland for actual New Years). It was like visiting royalty at their beautiful Pazo in the heart of the Galicia countryside where we drank well and ate better and conversed until making our excuses at five AM while the party was still in full swing, no doubt being called English ‘lightweights’ by the remaining guests.

For New Years Eve we attended the hostal at ‘O Teixo’ with our neighbours and their two children and again had a fantastic night, eating twelve grapes at midnight and then wishing all our English friends ‘Happy New Year’ by text message a clear hour before Big Ben chimed in 2015 in the UK. This time we weren’t the first to leave but the party was still going strong when we left at five-thirty.

With thick heads and eyes held open with match sticks we joined Stephen and Kay for a New Years Day clifftop walk to blow the cobwebs away and we finally got that sunny picnic that we’d been promising ourselves since Christmas Eve.

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O Christmas Tree!

There is a romantic yuletide notion about country living, one borne out by countless films, TV advertisements, festive cards and music videos. It is that you can just wander up into the forests, fell your own Christmas tree, and carry it home over your shoulder to the appreciation of your wife to be adorned with baubles, lights and tinsel.

ideal christmas tree

I am sad to report that it doesn’t happen anything like that!

Admittedly we’d left it late when we enquired of our neighbour, Elena, the best place to buy a Christmas tree. She shrugged her shoulders, enquired as to our preferred genus, and then suggested that we just go into the forest and get one. I smiled, but I’d instantly visions of incurring the wrath of a distant neighbour, which would develop into the kind of blood feud that would run through generations, the kind where the original reason was lost in the mists of time. Amanda and I looked at one another, with that knowing spousal look that while this sounded like the most romatic of ideas, we’d just go to a garden centre and buy one.

But mid-way through the following morning Elena arrived, gingham smock and all, carrying a deadly looking scythe and offered to take us ‘tree hunting’. We donned our work gear and boots and trudged off into the hills on a two hour, ultimately fruitless, quest.

Nothing we saw matched our (Amandas) expectations. Every candidate that looked great from a distance looked rubbish from close up. They were all; too tall, too short, too bushy, too sparse, or simply too inaccessible. Elena got bored of the ‘picky English’ and we called it a day, thanking her for her help.

Tomorrow, we decided, the last Saturday before Christmas, we’d go to a garden centre and get ourselves a lovely Christmas tree, and all would be well with the world. Well, that was the plan.

After three garden centres, and a 100km round trip, the penny dropped. Galicians don’t do real Christmas trees, and if they do, then they have already bought them way before the last Saturday before Christmas. Now I had a depressed Amanda and I was in the doghouse, as though it was solely my fault.

After a very quiet and contemplative lunch  it was after three in the afternoon and we’d one last throw of the dice. I chucked a saw, the axe and the chain saw in the back of the car and we set off for a remote hillside that we’d spotted a couple of days earlier while out driving.

And this is where the reality deviates, at 180 degrees, from the romantic notion. Where your brain now pictures lightly falling snow, the jingle of bells in the distance and small cottages with warm glowing lights; the reality is waist deep brambles and gorse, midges and mosquitos looking for a dusk time snack, and wild boar tracks indicating that we were far from alone.

After considering and debating the merits of twenty plus candidates we settled on a five metre tall pine tree, just far enough away from the road to be out of sight of any approaching traffic, and on level enough ground for me to be able to swing an axe unencumbered. We didn’t want a five metre tree, but the top two metres looked as though they would make an acceptable festive decoration (to my eyes at least).

Trees don’t fell as easily as you see in the films. Instead of three blows with a mighty axe, it took more like fifty-three, but eventually it fell, and to Amandas surprise it toppled in the right direction. I quickly lopped off the top two and a half metres with the saw and slung it over my shoulder for the perilous expedition back to the road.

Cut and bleeding from countless lost battles with brambles, tree stumps and gorse we were almost at the road when we heard a car, the first to pass us for about an hour. I dropped the tree and tried to look like a rambler  despite being up to my elbows in undergrowth. It was the post-mistress, but thankfully she didn’t stop to say hello.

The tree just fitted in the car and we got it back to the barn without further incident. I spent the night expecting a knock on the door, which, once opened would see me face to face with a shotgun wielding local who would then accuse me of ‘tree rustling’, pointing at the two and a half metres of evidence overnighting in our wood store.

But fortunately the knock never came.


Today we put it in its bucket and adorned it with baubles and glittery things (well Amanda did).  It is now surrounded by the gifts which our families so kindly gave us before we left in November.  Amanda isn’t particularly happy with the tree but accepts it is probably as good as we could get with six days left to the big day.

I think that it looks smashing, very rustic, and almost worth all the scarring to my lower limbs.

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Banging Heads with Bureaucracy – Part I

We’ve been living in Galicia for just under a month and already we’ve been outed to our neighbours (in a country which lives to gossip) as ‘electricity thieves’, and it’s not our fault.

This is our first real ‘run  in’ with Spains’ legendary bureaucracy, and I fear that it won’t be our last, hence the title of this blog.

Let me try and explain.

When we had the barn watertight, we brought in a local electrician to do the installation, which included re-siting the meter by the road (a legal requirement), and we also asked him to change the name of the account to myself, and double our ‘potential’ (the amount of electricity in Kw that we can use concurrently). Everything seemed to go well, with the installation at least, however the bill remained in the previous owners name and the potential down at a lowly 2.2 Kw (just enough to run a washing machine without blowing the main fuse).

Within the first week of us being here we spotted an engineer at our meter and Amanda went to speak to him thinking he was taking a reading in readiness for a new bill, but she returned to the house in a blind panic as he told her that the meter had been disconnected, and that we were stealing electricity. He would now report it to his company and politely informed her that it was likely that they would cut us off.

Very alarmed, in a house where everything is electric, we called the electrician who came straight over. He was as confused as us. He’d installed a new meter two years ago which had now disappeared and a new meter was in place but not connected to the electricity supply. He called our supplier who confirmed that they were aware, and that there had been a problem with the meter which their engineers had disconnected it to test.

We all breathed a sigh of relief. It seemed we would be able to cook tea, have a warm shower, and preserve the food in the fridge and freezer. We waited, admittedly a little nervously, for an engineer to attend and reconnect our meter.

A fortnight passed before a most unexpected development.

The previous owner, who lives locally and whose name is still on the bill, and who speaks no Castellano (only speaking the local dialect, ‘Gallego’), sent her son with a report from an engineer who had been out the previous day. In our absence he made out a formal report about our ‘electricity theft’, giving it to the neighbour, whose name is still on the bill. He was far from happy saying we’d landed his elderly mother in legal trouble, and after I worked out what it was, so was I.

We called the electrician again and he just said it was sorted and not to worry about anything. But he wasn’t the one with a pink form from the engineer bearing accusations of ‘theft’ or the one facing the prospect of cold showers and sandwiches by candlelight!

Another week on and we still don’t have a resolution, despite a letter to the electricity company demanding that they call us immediately.

It looks like the second engineer has reconnected the faulty meter as it seems to be showing random readings about the level of our consumption and our constantly exceeding our potential.

Much as I’ve tried to be logical in investigating the readings I’ve seen messages suggesting that we are over-using from a high of 130% to a lowly 29% above our potential. Some of those readings were when we’d nothing whatsoever switched on in the barn.

It’s a relief every morning when the lights work and we can boil the kettle for a brew, but just in case we’ve stocked up on firewood and candles.

It could be a very romantic, rustic, Christmas! (But I’m not sure Amanda will think so).

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