Any Excuse for a Party

The Spanish will throw a party to talk about organising parties. Personally I think that as a nation it is one of their most endearing qualities, indicative of their all-embracing sociable nature.

Spain has almost double the amount of bank holidays that we get in the UK. They  have a habit of not forcing most of them into Mondays, when the celebration date truly falls on a Tuesday or a Thursday many people create a Puente (bridge), on the day before or after, to extend to a four day weekend. A proper break.

But they don’t only rely on public holidays, they will throw a fiesta at the drop of the proverbial hat, and some for the most obscure of reasons and causes.

I’ve previously mentioned the Trout Festival in A Pontenova, and the nearby Chestnut Festival at Saldoira. There was the very  late night music festival associated with the consumption of Wild Boar in Taramundi, and ever since I heard about it I’ve wanted to be in Galicia for the Percebes (goose neck barnacle) festival in Rinlo. And that barely scratches the surface. Every village, no matter how small, has its own annual fiesta and in rotation over a number of years each village fiesta gets elevated to the top festival in the region where the villagers fund food, drink and entertainment for their near village neighbours.

The last time we were out in Galicia our Spanish friend and mentor Dolores trumped our offer of a trip to the market in nearby Meira, with the suggestion that we visit the ‘Cockle’ (Berberecho) festival in Foz, a fifty kilometre drive from the barn.

A party dedicated to celebrating the humble cockle!

fiestasignWe were intrigued and not a little amused.

So on Sunday lunchtime we took a jaunt through torrential winter downpours to the windswept summer surf capital, now abandoned by the summertime throngs of VW Camper vans, knee length wetsuits and bronzed bodied barbecues, leaving the locals to their own off-season company.

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The whole fair was contained within a single big white tent down on the harbour, with an industrial heater at one end and a local gaita group piping their pipes and drumming their drums.

We bought a book of vouchers for food and drink, selected cockles three-ways to share and three plastic beakers full to the brim of local white wine. With great culinary anticipation we joined the throngs of locals on the communal tables to sample the fare and shout to one another in an attempt to be heard above the local Celtic music.

confabasWe shared our three dishes; cockles cooked in white wine and garlic; cockles with local beans (fabas); and a cockle empanada, all with lovely locally baked fresh bread.

They were delicious, a cut above your usual fast food kebabs and burgers, and washed down with a ridiculously good local white wine for 80p a glass (plastic beaker).

Yet another storm moved through, drenching those brave enough to make a run from their cars to the tent, but we were warm inside with full bellies and ruddied cheeks thanks to the heat from the jet engine heater in the corner.

Another fiesta under the belt, but I’m still waiting for my goose neck barnacles (Percebes).

The berberecho fiesta was sponsored by the local council and ran for three days, during which time three tonnes of cockles were consumed by the hungry residents, and temporary party visitors to Foz.

And believe me, that is one hell of a lot of cockles.

 

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Learning About Leccy

I’ve learned more about electrics and cabling over the last weekend than I have in the last forty years. My crash course started early on Saturday morning when the need for toast blew the barns power supply. At the time we were using two lights, the hob extractor, a small electric radiator, the water heater and one of the rings on the induction hob to boil the kettle. I put four slices of toast into our lovely new art deco style toaster, pushed down the sliders, and everything went off.

After the initial shock I made my way to the new fuse box to flip back whatever switch had tripped, but to my consternation they were all good. It seemed that our problem was more serious than it first appeared.

fuseboxsmallWe called the electrician who had installed the whole system in the barn and he asked whether the switches had tripped. When we told him that they were all fine, he said he was on his way. We’d heard that before and settled in for a breakfastless long wait.

Within five minutes his little red van pulled up the road and parked outside the barn. What service! He looked at the circuit board and then asked about the trip switches in the main house. We weren’t aware of trip switches in the big house, so we found the keys and followed him down the path. Sure enough, the switch was tripped, and two seconds later we were back on full power thanking him for his prompt action and breakfast saving expertise.

But my education was just beginning.

In Spain, apparently, you pay a standing charge based on the maximum amount of kilowatts (KW) that are supplied to your property. This is around 1.7 Euros per KW per month. As our big house hadn’t been inhabited since the village was connected to the mains, we were getting the very lowest supply at just over 2 KW, just about enough to run a washing machine.

As soon as we hit our limit then trip switches blew, the desire for a simple continental breakfast had overloaded our system. We had asked the electrician to increase our supply threefold at the time he did the installation, but it must have slipped his mind, or been too difficult, or been delayed in the tangled web of Spanish bureaucracy. He worked some black magic at the main control box and told us that everything should now be alright.

While he was there I asked him to show me where the TV aerial cable emerged in the big house as the main job for this trip was to install a television. He took me to a tube emerging half way down the big house and confidently told me that ‘this is the one’. I committed it to memory, ready for Monday’s pre-arranged aerial implementation with the assistance of my friend Neil (although I knew I’d be the one doing the assisting).

Monday’s implementation started brilliantly. The aerial that I’d purchased was the right one, I’d got enough cable and fittings, and within half an hour the antenna was in position and awaiting its connection to the barn.

The basic difference between the professional (Neil) and ham-fisted amateur (me) is knowledge. On my own I’d have tried feeding the cable through the pipe from the house, and probably got into a horrible mess, but Neil had a set of ‘push rods’. He fed them through the tube as I passed each new length, pointy side up, to be screwed into the end of the ever lengthening plastic snake disappearing into the depths of the house.

When we reached about 15m, Neil hit a dead stop, he grimaced trying to push the rod through its barrier. But the rods were going nowhere. We went back to try from the barn end. This time the push rods went just over a metre before hitting the blockage. It seemed that we’d reached the impass directly under the floor of the beautifully newly tiled porch.

Disappointed, with an unconnected aerial, and visions of having to dig up the floor, we did what every Englishman does in this situation; we retired to the warmth of the kitchen for a cuppa and a nice piece of cake.

I called the electrician again. Over two, short, badly-connected, phone calls before he switched over to his answerphone, I told him that the pipe was blocked and we couldn’t install the aerial. As the first cup of tea became a second, and a third, is was clear that he’d not be so responsive this time.

Ever eager to please, Neil said he had one more thing to try, a very flexible but much shorter push rod that could go round more acutely angled bends. He retrieved it from his car and decided to start at the barn end, quickly threading past the earlier blockage and eventually pushing ten metres of flexible plastic push rod into the pipe.

Then he reached another impasse, so I went looking to see if I could see the emerging probe. It wasn’t where I’d been told by the electrician that it should be, but at the end of the big house closest to the barn I found another tube, with a sealed end. As I rattled it, I could tell there was something inside. I cut the tube and there was the most welcome of sights, the white plastic bobble on the end of the push rod. In the descending gloom we attached the coaxial cable to the push rod, pulled it through the tube, and connected it at both ends.

We had signal, we had a functioning TV, and so we had a couple of beers to celebrate. We’d overcome misinformation, and through sheer dogged determination had snatched victory from the jaws of what had looked like a crushing defeat.

Let’s just hope that our electrician never decides to hang up his multi-meter in favour of a career in gynaecology!

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Bah, humbug!

This is probably, and hopefully, our last ever British Christmas.

PerfectChristmasSmallThis time next year my racing imagination has us warm and cosy by the wood-burner, a locally cut Christmas tree decorated within an inch of its life, and friends popping in for Christmassy treats,  with plenty of alcohol and good conversation.

By then the big house will be a building site with progress being made towards the establishment of the self-catering apartments and all will be well with the world.

Spanish Christmas is very different to British Christmas. It is less materialistic, more family oriented, less commercial, and a little bit warmer, and less rushed. Nothing much happens on the 25th December as the big party is ‘Día de los Reyes’ (Day of the Kings) on the 6th January when children are gifted a small number of presents.

Call me a ‘bah, humbug’ if you want, but I think I fell out of love with the British Christmas when I was in my early teens.

2013 is hopefully the last time that we will be subject to the overt consumerism which makes me weep more than feel Christmas cheer, where people feel obliged to buy bigger and better presents that they can ill afford and then spend the rest of the year trying to pay for, before it all starts again in eleven months’ time. At a time of austerity people should be concentrating on surviving and putting food on their families table, not on buying little Jimmy the latest games console because ‘all his friends have one’.

This is the last year that we’ll be told by the supermarkets what to eat, told by the TV schedulers what to watch, and told by the government how to act.

My only real Christmas tradition is watching the Patrick Stewart version of ‘Scrooge’ always hoping that either I will find enlightenment and embrace Christmas (for I would dearly like to) or alternatively,  just for once, Ebeneezer would be as grumpy and anti-Christmas at the end of the film as he is at the start, thus justifying my own festive grumpiness.  I have it on DVD so it is a tradition which can continue in Spain.

But over time I have found myself mellowing a little.

In religion I’ve slowly made the transition from atheist to agnostic, hoping beyond hope that there is life after death for the ‘too many’ people that I have known, loved and lost, but at the same time knowing that an omnipotent being and beautiful afterlife goes totally against logic and science. In the same way I’d love to be able to have the Christmas spirit and embrace the festivities but in thirty years the sceptic in me just hasn’t allowed it.

Perhaps Spain and Navidad 2014 can be a fresh start for me, away from people’s expectations that I am a grumpy old sod in December, and a chance to spread some festive cheer with a clean slate. I want to enjoy Christmas, I just can’t bring myself to do so.

Next year, as I promise myself every year, I’ll be different.

Oi, Santa, pass me another mince pie will you?

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The Car Park of Midgets

I’m still desperately trying to find someone or something else to blame but am reluctantly coming to the conclusion that I will just have to shoulder the embarrassment and accept full unmitigated responsibility.

Various possible reasons for my vehicular faux pas have crossed my mind.

It could have been Amanda’s fault for not barking out her usual driving instructions and warnings; it could have been Amanda’s friend Christine’s fault for causing us to hire a larger car than the one that we normally require for two people; it might have been the hire companies fault for renting me a short and fat car rather than a long and thin one; or it could have been the fault of the architect for Lugo City Council who designed the most ludicrously laid out underground car park in the World.

But at the end of the day it was me that was driving; me who didn’t allow enough space when negotiating round a large concrete post; and me who remodelled the back passenger door and quarter panel of an almost new, pristine white Kia Cee’d Diesel Estate, beyond the repair of even the largest bottle of T-Cut.

My passengers reacted with surprising calm as I reversed the battered and bruised Kia away from the immovable upright trying to minimise additional damage, adjusted my angle to gain adequate clearance, and proceeded to complete the manoeuvre to change levels and find a car parking space. I was expecting either yelling or laughter as a minimum, but neither was forthcoming as we pulled into a bay more suited to a Fiat 500 than a modern estate car. There is something very wrong about a car park where it is impossible to find a space where it is impossible to park with both wheels inside the white lines.

We got out and surveyed the damage, and in the fluorescent-tube gloom of parking level -2 first impressions were that I might have got away with it. Nothing was hanging off, nothing too badly buckled, and no masses of paint missing. We locked it up and went shopping and as my two passengers scoured the never-ending shoe shops, I wallowed in a combination of frustration and embarrassment and tried to put on a brave face.

In the plain light of day the diagnosis was rather different. The rear door and quarter panel were badly dented and gouged, the whole area of damage measuring about 50cm by 50cm, and going on past UK repair shop experience I estimated that the damage would likely be in excess of €1,000.

blogcaraccident

There were four long days to wait before I would find out my fate. I spent time mentally practicing the Spanish for ‘I am afraid that I’ve had a little accident’ and ‘Next time I will hire a smaller car or find a bigger car park’. All the time still wondering whether I could get away with saying ‘My wife did it’.

The non-English speaking but kind lady at Hertz was very nice about it, as though it was the kind of thing that happened on a daily basis (and it probably does). She surveyed the damage, tapped away at her computer and then informed me that she’d be taking the princely sum of €361 from my credit card, a card which she didn’t need as worryingly they already had the details.

Now we’re back in England I think that I have all the documents I need, and there are many, to jump through the hoops imposed by my ‘Annual Excess Insurance’. Hopefully I’ll get my money back within a couple of months and all that it will have cost me is a huge dollop of pride!

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Stunned to Silence

My absence from the blogosphere hasn’t gone un-noticed. I do apologise.

I’ve had a couple of people mention it to me directly (thanks Mum), one separately to Amanda, and my ‘long-lost’ Uncle from Portugal even e-mailed me to enquire about my lack of updates. It can be very easily explained, I’ve only gone and got a full-time job!

It was all a bit of an accident.

I was casually minding my own business, picking up the odd short mapping contract, working quietly from home and keeping my head down, biding my time until Amanda had put enough money into savings to enable us to put our English house on the market, pack up our belongings, and head for Galicia.

Then I saw a job advertised, maternity cover for a fixed term of 11 months, and it dovetailed brilliantly with our plans. I applied, not really expecting that any public sector organisation would want to employ a ‘stuck in their ways’ veteran GIS consultant, and sent it off into the ether never expecting to hear about it again.

I got called for interview, and tried to avoid it by being in Galicia on their chosen date. They were persistent and a week after my last return from paradise, I was asked to sit a practical examination of my mapping skills and grilled by two very nice interviewers.

Then, to my total surprise, they went and offered me the job.

It was too good an offer to turn down, exactly the kind of thing I do, and with a job description which could have been written for me. So a month ago I found myself dusting off the suit, sorting out some suitable ties (non-Disney), polishing my shoes and aquainting myself with the pleasures of packing my lunch into one of the tupperware boxes which had lived in our kitchen cupboards for a long time, but which had previously held no interest or significance.

I’d forgotten how tiring it is to concentrate for eight hours a day and five days a week. I’ve been shattered for the last four weeks, thank goodness I am just sitting behind a desk rather than doing some real manual work. Weekends have become important rest days rather than just being like normal days, when the only difference was that Amanda was at home.

I have a mountain of non-work, work (house related, rugby league related, golf club related) piling up on my study desk and demanding to be done…if I can ever find time when I am neither working or asleep.

Now I have a formal holiday card, and have to plan ahead, we’ve booked three trips to the house over the coming months. All are long weekends in October, January and March when I will go with the best intention of getting jobs done and come home having achieved very little, as I slip into Spanish Time.

But I’m sure I’ll enjoy our trips, probably more than the last few times we’ve visited, as there will be the added bonus that I am not in a jacket and tie…and not spending an hour a day on the transport of the proletariat…the bus!

Hopefully the upcoming visits will also provide me with plenty of topics to blog about.

 

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