The other Spain – Part II – Eating Out

Based on what you read in the brochures I assume that any good Benidorm holiday comprises; sitting in the sun, gently cooking in your choice of ‘tan enhancer’; drinking alcohol at every possible opportunity; and either eating, or working out where you are next going to eat.

As the largest tourist destination in Europe, Benidorm presents a cornucopia of opportunity for the peckish or downright ravenous. Amongst others you can choose from Spanish, Indian, Chinese, Thai, American hamburgers, Greek kebabs or if you are so inclined, English pub grub.

Unlike rural Spain there is no issue about what time you eat, not scowls from waiters when you pitch up at 6:30pm and ask for a table, no strange stares from the locals when they see you stuffing your face before dusk. Benidorm is truly cosmopolitan.

marisqueriaThe choice is mind-boggling, and mouth-watering. Tripadvisor lists a mere four hundred and three restaurants but I’d guess that there are ten times that many. This did bode well for Amanda and I. Lovers of tapas and raciones, it gave us a chance to try both old favourites and new dishes, and broaden our experiences and palets.

We had just two nights to make the most of what Benidorm nightlife had to offer. On our first night we took control, and with the rest of Amandas family in tow we headed for the world famous ‘Tapas Alley’, or as it is formally known Calle Santa Domingo just off the main walking street.

The consensus, probably with some arm twisting, had been for tapas and after delaying as long as we could (until about 9pm) we found a menu we liked the look of, essentially one that had steak and chips on the menu for my Father-in-Law, and headed inside to be sat by the window on a long table, which seated the ten of us with ease.

tapasalley

We ordered plenty of beer and a dozen tapas dishes to share, and of course my Father-in-Laws steak and chips. In traditional tapas style we dived in as each dish arrived. Quite a few of the dishes were new to the majority of our entourage, but very familiar to Amanda and I; pimientos de padron, chipirones, tortilla espana, croquetas con cabrales, croquetas con morcilla, all consumed with gusto and wide delight.

Then the bombshell. My Father-in-Law didn’t think his steak was cooked right.

It wasn’t unexpected. Brian has a bit of a reputation where food, especially on holiday, is concerned. For as long as I can remember, before enquiring whether the in-laws have enjoyed any of their many holidays, the first question always asked is ‘did Dad like the food’. On the majority of occasions the answer is ‘no’. Two others tasted his steak and judged it ‘very nice’ but it was too late, he would eat no more and retire to his hotel room for a bag of the crisps that he’d lovingly transported from England.

The following night, Thursday, was Brian’s birthday and we decided that we’d fall on our proverbial sword and allow him full control over the choice of restaurant for his birthday treat.

wellingtonAt just after 8:00pm we found ourselves seated in the Duke of Wellington, English pint in hand, not knowing whether to laugh or cry.

Amanda and I, without any discussion, hatched identical plans. We both ordered the child-size portion of fish & chips for 4,30€ knowing that the night was young and that if we could keep plenty of stomach capacity free, then we’d be able to top up on tasty tapas later in the evening.

Brian had the jumbo fish & oven chips washed down with a couple of pints of lager and followed with apple pie & custard. He was a happy birthday boy, wearing a massive grin, and gave no mention of the need for a midnight snack of crisps and pop. Mission had been accomplished, Brian was fed and watered and content.

Our devious unspoken plan now swung into full action, with almost military precision.

Having somehow lost four of our party to the supermarket (for reasons I still don’t fully understand) we headed back to tapas alley with parents-in-law, Amanda’s younger brother Luke, and Luke’s girlfriend Lisa.

Within a few minutes we found ourselves right in the middle of the bustle, sat outside a tapas bar on upturned barrels with beers in hand and awaiting the tapas dishes that we’d carefully selected from the menu. Four of us tucked in with relish, my parents-in-law being spectators. The food was delicious, the atmosphere very Spanish, and the beer cold.

Brian said little, pondering his response to being shanghaied into another tapas bar. When he did speak it was a corker, ‘I can’t believe you are all eating that, it looks like they’ve swept it up off the floor and put it on a plate’.

After the holiday we took reports from Amanda’s siblings.

Following our departure the ‘Duke of Wellington’ had been visited on two of the three remaining nights, the other being a night in the hotel restaurant. Of the seven nights that the family were in Benidorm, four were spent at the ‘Welly’. Incredibly, on one of the nights Luke reported that a Spanish family came in ‘for an English!’.

I guess that on that Thursday night we won the battle, but lost the war.

Posted in Food & Drink | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

The other Spain – Part I – ‘PooGate’

I know that I run the risk of being called a Spain snob, but I have never had any desire to visit to Costas, the Balearics, or even the Canaries. I’ve seen them on the telly with their sun reddened Englishmen in vest tops and baseball caps eating fish & chips and drinking lager in Lineker’s Bar before throwing it back up in the street. These places have absolutely no appeal for me.

When my in-laws rang a few months ago to say that the whole family were booking a week in Benidorm to celebrate my father-in-laws 65th birthday I broke into a cold sweat, a sweat of panic and fear. Much as I love my in-laws, surely they didn’t expect me, connoisseur of the Spain of; empty roads, rolling hills, forested mountains and good food, to go to the Mecca of all things that ‘Sun’ readers hold dear.

I put my foot down and said ‘No Way’!

Over the last few months there had been multiple attempts to change my mind. Half-hearted appeals from Amanda (who also wasn’t that keen), attempted blackmail by my young nephews, and ‘it would have been nice if you could have come’ speeches from my father-in-law, but I held firm.

I’m still not quite sure how it happened but three weeks ago Amanda booked us on the RyanAir flight from Manchester to Alicante and found us a reasonable looking four-star hotel just outside Benidorm for a reasonable sum. I still don’t remember agreeing to go, but at 3am last Wednesday I found myself on the way to Manchester airport for the 6:30am flight, half feeling like I was being kidnapped. The only thing I was looking forward to was the surprise on their faces when we showed up unannounced.

By God it was hot.

We arrived into temperatures in the late thirties, speeded through passport control like well-travelled professionals with just our hand baggage, and were on the transfer coach within minutes of landing. Here where we sat for just over an hour as family after family of England shirted English and Manchester United shirted Irish struggled with their oversized and multi-coloured luggage to the adjacent smoking area for a last fag before the forty-five minute transfer. Bulging at the seams, we set off for the skyscrapers and nightclubs of Europe’s biggest tourist resort.

newtownview

After three circuits of Benidorm, and two and a half hours on board, we were finally dropped at our hotel, which was a pleasant surprise. It was almost empty, away from the skyscrapers, had large rooms and a rooftop pool, and pretty good air conditioning.

The surprise was getting closer. We’d texted Amandas sister and brother to ask ‘How are you? What are you doing today? How is the weather?’ as if we didn’t know it was bloody hot. Neither had responded giving us no idea whether they were at their hotel or not. We did what every quasi-Spaniard should do in such a situation….we went for lunch. It felt like the last supper.

Four courses and nine euros later, as the temperature pushed through the forty-degree mark, and we walked up the road to the in-laws hotel, sneaked through reception, found Amanda’s parents by the pool and sprung the surprise.

The beer flowed, comparisons of journeys made, and lunch discussed. I was itching to get out of the stifling temperatures and take advantage of the hotel pool.

So far, so good.

pool

We’d been in the pool for about thirty minutes, fighting on an every-man-for-himself basis with my nephews water pistols, when the shout came up from the far end of the pool….’brown shark’.

All heads turned towards the incident as the lifeguards blew their whistles and went running for their fishing nets. Word quickly spread as the pool emptied, someone had committed the ultimate faux pas and poo’d in the pool.

The pool was quickly surrounded with police tape, filled with chlorine, and put ‘out of bounds’ for the rest of the day.

Within six hours of landing Benidorm was living up to my expectations. You couldn’t make it up.

Part II to follow…..

Posted in Local Life | Tagged | Leave a comment

Thank goodness for the upgrade

Stood staring through the plexi-glass at the nice lady from Atesa, I did something that I’ve never done, or even considered. I accepted a car upgrade.

When hunting for a hire car on the internet in advance of our trip, I began to realise why this was our first trip to Galicia in a July. We’d hit tourist season and the usually extremely reasonable prices for car hire had gone through the roof. A car with plenty of space was impossible to find for under 400€ so I’d reluctantly agreed to a Vauxhall Corsa, or similar, for 120€ for 6 days.

It would be a tight squeeze, particularly knowing that Amanda’s shopping list for the impending trip to A Coruña went to several pages, and when I was offered an upgrade I didn’t deliver my usual speedy ‘No, gracias’.

The deal on offer was for an intermediate sized car for an additional 42€. I could scarcely believe my ears and checked that the price quoted wasn’t the daily uplift, but after confirmation I signed on the dotted line and took possession of the keys for a nice ‘brown’ Citroen C4.

I may not have been so keen had I been told it was brown, not a nice friendly brown, but the kind of brown which… well, is best not discussed in polite company.

Perhaps the French are having a joke at Spains expense, I can almost sense then sniggering behind their baguettes.

It turned out to be cavernous, and by heck did we need it.

Mondays’ trip to A Coruña, on the north western tip of Spain, was exhausting. Our shopping took two trips through IKEA, an additional two trips through the neighbouring shopping centre, three cups of coffee and a platos combinados at lunchtime for additional strength.

car1

The second mission through IKEA ended up forcing a full to empty and re-load of the car and despite some concerns over whether our entire bounty would fit, we managed to pack it to the rafters (if Citroen C4s have rafters). With the rear wheel arches resting on the rear tyres we set off on the 150km return trip to the barn.

car2

car3

Did we get everything that we needed?

The list for the next trip seems almost as long as the one that made a decent dent in the credit card this time, and we’ve no doubt improved IKEA‘s profits for 2013/14, doing our bit to spend Spain out of its recession.

And if we’d not had the upgrade? Well Amanda would have spent four hours waiting in the underground car park at IKEA while I took the first load home, or we’d have had to get quite a few refunds.

Posted in Local Life | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

When winter touched Liñeiras

I’ve never seen the house and barn in snow.

It does occasionally snow in Galicia but with the warming effect of the Atlantic spreading as far in land as A Pontenova, it is very rare for anything but the lightest of light frosts.

When we visited last week, our neighbour Oskar told me that we’d had a proper covering back in March, and he’s just e-mailed me the photographic evidence. I hope that he won’t mind me sharing the pictures with you.

 

winter3

I’m a little envious that I wasn’t there to take some photos myself, but rather pleased I didn’t have to risk life and limb on the winding road up to Liñeiras in a pokey little hire car with almost bald tyres.

winter2winter1

It certainly looks a lot different to the overgrown jungle which we encountered last week.

Posted in The House in Liñeiras | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Three births and eighty deaths

I can’t believe how fast this week has gone, and how exhausting painting can be. If I never see another drop of white emulsion again, it will be too soon. We’ve used close to 30 litres to paint the living room and the bedroom, and it’s not as if the barn is a mansion…it’s a barn.

We leave tomorrow, having achieved about half of what I had intended before we arrived, and knowing that we won’t be back until mid-October, and then it isn’t really a working visit.

But this has been a trip of birth, in more ways than one.

It has been the birth of the barn in terms of both Amanda and myself being able to stay here, and it feel like a home. I’ll admit that with the exception of the newly kitted out kitchen and the luxurious bathroom (which is almost fully functional), it still feels a little like camping, but we are getting very close.

There have been two other births, the first on our land where Carlos is currently keeping his horses, having moved the donkey Enrique somewhere else in the valley where his occasional braying can be heard. On Sunday night one of his mares gave birth to a lovely little foal, which is a little camera shy. She allowed me to snap her picture, with her mother, from the car window as I headed to A Pontenova for yet another tub of paint.

Foal

The second was shown to us by an excited Dolores who has adopted a stray cat which she allows to sleep in her woodshed. On the fourth of July, out popped four of the cutest little kittens which she is now trying to re-home, including suggesting that our new barn would not be compete without a ‘kitty’.

kittens

They say that ‘bad things always come in three’, well here are three good things.

The bad came on Wednesday night, and hopefully won’t be followed by two more, as eighty people were tragically and horrifically killed when a train left the rails about 120km away from us in Santiago de Compostela, on the eve of the big celebrations for ‘Galicia Day’.

It is all that the neighbours, and anyone else for that matter are talking about, and understandably so. A truly awful situation and the worst train accident in terms of ‘loss of life’ in the history of Spanish rail travel.

Puts everything else into perspective.

Posted in Local Life | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment