Hotter than Hell

There were many reasons why we chose Galicia. The lush green landscape, the rugged coastline, the friendly people, the superb seafood, and the relative low cost of property, all figured in our decision, but we also gave a lot of thought to the climate.

We both like the warm weather, but we don’t like it excessively and oppressively hot. Neither of us particularly like frost and snow, particularly the harsh winters that have blighted northern England in the last few years. So a part of Spain where Summer temperature norms are bearable ‘late 20s’ and the Winter seldom drops below medium single figures was perfect. You still get the change of seasons, missing from the southern extents of the Iberian peninsula, but the differences between them are far less marked than more northerly latitudes.

That said it’s been a shocking spring in Galicia. It rained almost every day from January to June and it is only in the last couple of weeks that temperatures have started to pick up and the ground has had time to dry out from its winter saturation. It all bodes well for our impending ‘decorating’ (although Amanda seems to be planning days on the beach) trip in a few weeks.

carhits50bIt was therefore with some alarm that I saw a photograph on facebook yesterday from an ex-University friend of Amandas, Ramon, who lives in A Coruña up on the north-west tip of Galicia. I’ve unashamedly stolen his photograph which shows the A Coruña temperature yesterday had just crept above 50 degrees.

That would have me see finding a bit of shade in the coolest part of the house that I could find and sitting with my feet in a bucket of iced water while sucking an ice lolly.

Fifty degrees centigrade was not something that I signed up for. I experienced it once while undertaking a mid-summer work contract in Abu Dhabi, and it nearly killed me.

As I write this, from my warmish home in Huddersfield, in Galicia it is currently 28 degrees, at ten in the morning and forecast to hit 39 during the day. High temperature will be continuing all week and into next.

weather

I’m glad we’ve booked a hire car with air conditioning, and digging the footings for our new patio may just have to wait until October.

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A strange love of tractors

I have an almost inexplicable fondness of tractors, and Galicia is full of tractors, it’s easy to have your head turned when driving.

In the book ‘Everything but the Squeal’ by John Barlow, he mentions that;

‘Like Mexicans can’t make good wine, and the French can’t be modest, the Galicians can’t drive. Imagine a place populated  entirely by giddy, egocentric children, each one of whom has been given a supercharged tractor for Christmas, without training or guidance.

Galicia is actually full of people who have tractors, although I will admit that very few of them could claim their trusty steeds to be supercharged.

I say ‘almost inexplicable’ because from the depths of my sub-conscious I can pull some vague recollections of very happy memories relating to tractors.

When I was a kid, probably up to the age of about ten or twelve, we regularly paid family visits to Pete and Jane, the much ‘cooler’ parents of John and Mandy (the same ages as myself and my brother) who lived on the outskirts of Nottingham. Jane’s family were farmers, and at least once a year we’d be taken along to their rambling working farm and run riot for an afternoon with the part-feral farm-based cousins of John and Mandy, while our parents sat around and drank tea and ate cake.

There were all sorts of interesting things to do, most of which would now certainly be outlawed under some health a safety regulations. We would swim in the mill pond and pick water-cress, build castles from hay bales, drive unlicensed and untaxed cars through the woods (without a seat-belt), chase chickens and tickle pigs, and generally get filthy and sweaty. It was as much fun as it was possible to have as a ten year old, and would often lead to journeys home wearing just our underpants as our wet and muddy clothes were consigned to the boot.

So where do tractors come into this you might ask?

Dad was a truck driver, and fancied his abilities to drive anything. When visiting the farm he’d sometimes borrow the keys to their tractor and go and do a bit of ploughing, a true ‘busman’s holiday’. Janes parents were happy as they got some free labour, Dad was happy as he was driving something unusual, and I was happy because I’d sit beside him as he wore a broad smile, while making almost geometric lines across the farms rolling acres.

The memories it brings back are perfectly summarised in the song lyrics of ‘JCB’ by Nizlopi (after all a  JCB is almost a tractor);

Well, I’m rumblin’ in this JCB
I’m five years old and my dad’s giant sitting beside me
And the engine rattles my bum like berserk
While we’re singing
‘Don’t forget your shovel if you want to go to work!’

And we’re holding up the bypass, oh oh
Me and my Dad having a top laugh
Oh woah’

So when Neil and Rosa took me to the Feria in Vegadeo on my last visit I was a little distracted by the show of tractors in the agricultural area. Neil thought I was a bit mad, despite him owning a whole plethora of plant, all of which are integral to what he is doing in building his own house.

tractors

I will need a tractor. Okay, I only really need a ride on mower, but I doubt that I’d be able to stretch to one of these beauties.

Neil was more taken with the idea of one of the tea infusions on offer in the exhibition hall, although I am not sure it would have particularly good idea when operating heavy machinery.

infusion

I wouldn’t know whether to brew it, smoke it, or bake it into a cake!

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And on the fourth day…

The kitchen was finally fitted on the fourth day, the fitter was not joking when he said that two days wouldn’t be enough to fit eight metres in length, although I did unpack and push the fridge-freezer into position myself saving him 65 linear centimetres worth of work.

The fitter was from Ferrol, about a two hour drive from the barn, and called Abel. When I pointed out that his name was just one consonant away from the name of our IKEA kitchen units (Adel) he didn’t find it as amusing as I did, but then it probably wasn’t the first time that he’d heard it.

Despite our original ‘frosty’ encounter a couple of months earlier, when he’d refused to work due to one of the walls not being straight, we soon warmed to each other and before I knew it he was sending me on regular trips to the local ferreteria (hardware) and fontaneria (plumbing) for all the bits he didn’t have, and which I then had to buy.

On one occasion it took three trips to get the correct hose to connect the taps to the pre-existing outlets, despite being told that there is only one possible type I could buy. Plumbing in Ferrol must be different to that in A Pontenova.

We even shared lunchtimes sat in the partial shade under the roof of our new wood store, chatting in Spanish about the usual subjects; Spanish life, the crisis, social security, his family, and the cost of fuel. Although I offered water, coffee, fruit, crisps and even sandwiches, he always declined, perhaps fearing that my kindness was in fact an attempt to poison him for his past obstinacy.

I’d rather that someone takes their time and does the job right, and there is no denying that Abel did just that because at the end of the fourth day I signed his paperwork to tell of my satisfaction, and he left me with a wave and a lovely new kitchen, and my front door key!

Before;

KitchenBefore

After;

KitchenAfter

I’m very impressed, especially for the price and the 25 year guarantee. It looks like a kitchen that cost double what we spent and from keeping my beady eye on Abel I can assure you that it is very well put together.

I’ve now furnished the new units with my hob kettle (brought from England), a cheap set of bendy knives and forks, some plastic cups, a free mug that I was given last Christmas by the nice lady check-out operator at Eroski, two tea towels, and half a bottle of washing up liquid. I could move in.

But, Amanda is already planning a massive spend then next time we visit in July, a trip which once concluded could see the best equipped kitchen in Galicia.

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When people ask why?

When we first tell people of 0ur plans for the house in Galicia we are greeted with two dichotomous responses.

One set of people are filled with excitement, on our behalf, wishing us well and showing a genuine interest in what we’ve got planned. The second, and opposing group, quickly wear that facial expression which denotes that we are ‘nutters’ and that they have no comprehension about why we’d give up a perfectly happy life in the United Kingdom to gamble on the Galician countryside.

The former leads to long discussions, the showing of any photographs that we have to hand, and our encouraging our new convert/s to visit the region at their earliest convenience to discover our little gem for themselves.

The latter response usually results in a rapid conversation change to discuss the weather, football or latest political scandal. Galicia dismissed forever into the ‘too difficult to understand’ wilderness.

In reality there are, of course many reasons for our ‘project’. These include; change of pace; healthier lifestyle; good food and wine; fresh air; a desire for country living; the massive variety of wildlife; living off the land; and many others.

But now I have the perfect reason summed up in a single photograph.

The archetypal Galician early summer morning, the sun burning off the mist in the valley bottom, and nothing but woodland as far as the eye can see. The birds were singing, the brook babbling, and the crickets were just starting to wake up and let the countryside know that it was good to be alive.

EarlyMorningGalicia It is simply a privilege to be able to share in natures ‘Good Morning’.

 

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England 2 – España 2

I’ve levelled the score and now we’re drawing on aggregate.

The carpenter arrived fifteen minutes ahead of schedule on Monday and installed the internal doors. 2-1.

I’m sitting on the balcony with a cup of coffee made in my newly installed kitchen. After three sweltering days, the sun is just peeping through the clouds and the birds are singing in celebration. The equaliser!

All is well with the World.

The kitchen took three and a bit days for Spain’s slowest kitchen fitter to assemble, but it looks great, and I have the satisfaction of knowing that he checked and double-checked every screw and bolt.

20130606-122735.jpg

Now all that remains is painting, furniture, and a bit of landscaping and the barn will be finished, allowing thoughts to turn to the big house.

More on the kitchen and other exploits when I have better wifi access.

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