Around every bend, a new treasure

To say that Galicia has a new delight around every corner is  probably a bit of an exaggeration, but on our last visit my harmless ‘Why don’t we take a drive to….’ turned into a bit of an adventure.

We’d got an hour to burn, a tank full of diesel, and an urge to explore.

I saw a signpost for Fonsegrada which sounded nice. I remembered someone mentioning it in the past but had forgotten the context, but as it was on a local signpost I thought that it must be fairly close.

The long, deserted and winding roads, brilliant for driving, stretched ahead up the mountainside and we set off to find new treasures. Ten miles into the journey the thickly forested roads opened out to a clearing as we entered the village of Sanxes, and open-mouthed were forced to stop, marvel at the skills of some local artist and take photos.

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Both sides of the road were lined with massive wooden carvings of figures, grottoes, toadstools and weird faces. It was a delightful roadside artist studio, the enchantment enhanced by low-lying mist and the eeriness of deathly silence in appeared to be a deserted settlement.

After investigating we continued on our journey to Fonsegrada, which turned out to be 50km from our origin and took an hour to reach along the winding roads, through hairpin bends, and avoiding precipitous drops. The novelty had soon worn off.

Fonsegrada was nothing spectacular, in fact it was a bit industrial. We didn’t even stop for a coffee as we re-set the satellite navigation for Taramundi and headed off to our next appointment, arriving over an hour later than planned.

Perhaps we are starting to adopt the Spanish ways?

 

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The international fuel conundrum

Something has been puzzling me about one big difference between England and Spain. A difference that effects everyone’s every day life, underlies the very fabric of commerce, and generates exasperation across the globe.

The cost of vehicle fuel.

There is a nice graphic on petrolprices.com which shows that almost fifty-nine percent of what we pay in the UK goes to the government in duty and VAT. The vendor (petrol station) gets just under four percent, and the product itself costs just under thirty-eight percent of what we pay for each litre.

fuelduty

I understand all that, and if you never left the shores of the UK you’d probably accept it. You’d obviously grumble every time you filled up, but know that there was no alternative if you wanted to use a car.

But here is where I am confused.

The last time that we were in Spain a litre of diesel cost 1.289€ and unleaded was 1.396€. To begin with, diesel was the equivalent of £1.10 a litre, and unleaded was £1.19 a litre.

spainpetrol

Why then are we paying £1.389 for diesel and £1.349 for Unleaded?

That’s 29p more for a litre of diesel, and 16p more for a litre of unleaded. For a sixty litre tank that is an additional £17.40 to fill up with diesel and £9.60 for a tank of unleaded.

But even more confusing is the difference between the cost of diesel and unleaded. In the UK diesel is four pence a litre more expensive, whereas in Spain it is just over ten cents cheaper. How can it be cheaper in one country and more expensive in the other?

I’d like to add that the difference is a little less stark than it was six to twelve months ago as the price in the UK has actually fallen whereas it has increased in Spain.

Somewhere, a population is being taken for mugs….and I suspect I know where!

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Food, food, glorious food

What Galician food lacks in finesse, it usually makes up for in taste, and often quantity.

Our last trip presented some opportunities for great food and as always we grasped them with both hands and made proverbial ‘pigs’ of ourselves.

The first opportunity came at the trout festival in A Pontenova on the fiesta Wednesday when after we’d witnessed the weigh in we bumped into our neighbours (the Madrilenos) who suggested that we sample the trout fayre and a beer at the makeshift but massive festival bar/restaurant.

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I’m not a massive fan of trout as it is usually a bit ‘muddy’ but this was nothing short of sensational, nothing like the trout I’ve had in the UK. Absolutely delicious; simply gutted and thrown in the deep fat fryer until crispy.

troutandbeer

Wash them down with a beer and a pidgin Spanish conversation about music with my new friend Oscar and the simplest possible meal becomes a memorable experience, the very fabric of Spanish life.

The following day we went to the big shopping centre at Lugo to search for items off an increasingly long list of requirements for the house, mostly without success. To break up the day we grabbed a quick snack at a new restaurant which has opened up where a fusty old bar used to be, and chose from their special menu which allows you to select three savoury dishes which are served on a round plate divided into sections (two quarters and a half).

As a concept I am not sure it works, but it seemed very popular with the local shoppers. What did work very well was the ‘Calamares Negro’ dish (black squid) which I ordered and which, while most unappealing on the plate, was delicious. The other two offerings didn’t fare quite so well but if I ever see this on a menu elsewhere I will choose it, despite ‘black’ usually being the antithesis of good food.

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That night we met with Stephen and Kay and two friends from England, Tony (who just as Stephen had previously warned is as mad as a box of frogs) and Anne (known as ‘the long suffering Anne’), and we went back to a favourite little back-street restaurant in Vegadeo. Here we had half a dozen brilliant tapas between us, all washed down with great local beer/wine. I was enjoying the food and the company so much that I forgot to take any photos.

The final night in Galicia saw us hunting for a restaurant with Neil and Rosa and after we’d found the previously recommended one closed, we ended up in Meira and wandered into a blacked out restaurant next to the park in the centre of town. The bar was open but despite it being after 10pm we were a little early for the restaurant. They switched on the lights and brought a beer and the menus.

The prices were cheap, even by Galicia’s usually cheap standards, but the food was again great.

I ordered Merluza à la Gallega which was fresh, succulent, plentiful and tasty for €7 (about £5.50).

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But the dish of the day, for carnivores at least was Neils’ chuletón de buey (Ox Steak) which was ridiculously enormous, about two inches thick and served with fries and pimientos de padron.

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It took him twice as long as the rest of us to strip all the meat from his bovine beast, break into a sweat, and call for beer re-enforcements to assist him to completion. All that for just €12 (about £10).

With all these great meals there was never room for desert.

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Spanish time, different to UK time

The more time I spend in Spain the more I convince myself that it is a country which operates in a different temporal paradigm to the United Kingdom.

There are still nominally sixty seconds in a standard minute, sixty minutes in a standard hour and twenty-four hours in a standard day, but they seem to disappear at a far faster rate than they do at home. It seems that time is in some way accelerated, you look at your watch and it is 10am and what feels like a couple of hours later is actually seven or eight in the evening. It is simply bizarre.

Let me try and explain.

We arrived in Spain on Monday 29th April and left on the 4th May, five and a half days in total, but it felt like we were there for no more than two or three days at a maximum. In that time we only completed a fraction of the work that we had planned for the trip, despite the aborted kitchen and doors fitting which you might have thought would have left us kicking our heels.

Each day seemed to pass on turbo time, so much so that on occasions I did consider whether I was losing large chunks of the day suffering from bouts of narcolepsy. No sooner had the alarm gone off in a morning than it seemed to be time to think about making plans for an evening meal.

Stopping on the coast at 1pm to eat a bit of empanada and an apple, turns into deciding that as it is already 4pm, we really ought to be making tracks back to the house to start the days work that we had planned.

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Amanda and I have started calling it Spanish time. Not simply an hour in advance of UK time, but a time which moves faster, despite an apparently more relaxed pace of life.

Being profound for a second (as profound as I can muster), I am sure that time seems to pass faster as a symptom of age. When I was a youngster the six week school summer holiday seemed to stretch on forever, I believe because six weeks was still a big chunk of a ten year olds entire life on the planet to that point. Now, hurtling towards middle-age, six weeks is a far smaller percentage of my total life and seems to pass relatively much more quickly. But this doesn’t go any distance to explaining why time moves faster in Spain than here.

It must be something to do with the lifestyle.

In Spain we don’t rush, we take our time. We stop and take in our surroundings and nature; the bird song and the babble of the brook;  impromptu chats with neighbours and time spent trying to describe an item to a shopkeeper with actions once my limited vocabulary has been exhausted. Perhaps we’re being hypnotised!

It is a worry, I don’t want time to pass so quickly when I am Spain, just when I am in the UK between trips.

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England 0 – España 2

There were two main reasons why we booked a week in Galicia in late April/early May; to be there while the kitchen was fitted; and, to be there while the internal doors were hung. These were the two remaining major structural items that would, between them, see the completion of the barn with the exception of decoration and furnishing.

To say that we were quite excited is an understatement.

But after almost three years of everything going right, we finally ran full speed into the ‘mañana’ buffer, derailing our best intentions and sending us home filled with disappointment.

This was the scene which greeted us arrival at the barn at the start of last week. Lots of lovely brown boxes packed with kitchen parts, all freshly delivered by IKEA and awaiting the fitter who was booked for Thursday and Friday.

kitchenarrival

We contacted the carpenter and he arranged to come to the house on Thursday afternoon to fit the internal doors and all was good with the world. Our long distance planning had seemed to have worked and everything was scheduled. Then the wheels came off, not one by one, but all four at the same time.

After doing various jobs around the barn on Tuesday and Wednesday we got a text, through a friend (it’s a long story) to say that the fitter would be with us at 10:30am on Thursday. We got to the house early, full of anticipation to see the brown cardboard boxes turn into a kitchen before our very eyes, and we waited, and waited. At 11:30 the fitter arrived, exchanged pleasantries, asked to see the plans and then told us that he wouldn’t be able to fit the kitchen as one of the walls wasn’t square and would need to be plastered (see below).

notsquarewall

As we’d earlier paid IKEA to send a surveyor to check the measurements and tell us of any preparation that we needed to do (a couple of sockets needed moving), we were stunned by his refusal. I suspect that he realised he hadn’t allocated enough time to finish, and that as an IKEA fitter he didn’t have the skills to do anything other than screw together unit carcases and bolt on the doors.

We called our builder who dropped everything and was with us in under ten minutes. He then spend half an hour frustratedly discussing with the adamant fitter, suggesting options to enable the fitting to start, but all to no avail. There was no backing down, he had the might of IKEA behind him, we would have to get the wall plastered.

The fitter then decided to check the delivered items against the manifest. Two hours in and he mentioned that the freezer we’d bought, independently of IKEA, was big enough for person. I took the opportunity to crack my first ever joke in Spanish; suggesting that a couple of hours earlier it was nearly him ‘dos horas antes, es para ti’.

He gave a nervous laugh!

Three hours after his arrival and all items correct and accounted for, he apologised and left, suggesting when we re-booked that we allowed four days for fitting (although IKEA are paid for piece work rather than time). We contacted IKEA who also apologised and offered to re-arrange at our convenience, I got on the iPhone EasyJet app and booked a return in early June.

To add to our woes, within ten minutes of the fitter leaving, the carpenter called to say that he’d just been to collect the doors and that he wasn’t happy with the finish. It would therefore be next week before he could come to fit them.

So that was it, the fatal second goal close to the end of the game, we’d lost, and Spain’s mañana attitude had won. So here is a photo of how the kitchen looked when we packed our bags to leave on Saturday afternoon.

kitchendeparture

England 0 – España 2.

 

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