A room with a view

‘There are four bedrooms, three of them are empty, pick whichever one you want’ said Ramon as we made final telephone arrangements for my much appreciated loan of his apartment in Taramundi.

Now anyone who has observed me trying to choose a space in an empty car park will know that I’m not good when presented with more than one choice. I’ve been known to drive around for minutes, past many empty bays, before finally settling on one. The emptier the car park, the worst I am. This was not a problem I shared when I arrived at ‘Casa Ramon’.

On first inspection is was easy to determine that the middle bedroom at the back of the house was the largest, and the one with the most spectacular views over the valley. I’ve since found out it is also the coldest and draftiest, but I am willing to put up with this minor inconvenience when this is the sight which greets me every morning when I pull up the shutters.

View without zoom

Small zoom avoiding the apartments in the valley bottom

Zoomed into a finca on the hillside

These photos were taken as dusk was shuffling its feet in the wings, about to make its entrance. The rest of the day the sun beams in through my window and the glare makes clear photography difficult, especially as I am no David Bailey!

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The university of Neil

Yesterday I learned to be a mechanic under the excellent tutelage of Neil, an ex-pat building his own house on the Asturias/Galicia border, who also happens to be an very good amateur mechanic and who responded to my ‘distress’ e-mail with unbounded generosity of time. There is a real community here with everyone offering assistance, advice and contacts.

I say I learned to be a mechanic, but in reality I learned how to; strip down a distributor, change an electronic ignition coil, clean points, check plugs, and get very greasy and oily while losing a little skin from my knuckles. I now know the electrical side of a 1987 Landrover engine in intimate detail, and so does Neil!

Eight hours of grease and oil, and rain!

From being a non-starter first thing in the morning, Neil coaxed the old girl back to life and has made her almost drive-able. We’ve narrowed down the problem to the points or the condenser, words which probably mean as much to you as they did to me at 9am yesterday morning. We now await Amanda’s precious couriered parcel from the UK, which is expected to arrive at some point on Friday, containing shiny new things for us to make oily and greasy.

Eight hours patiently investigating under the bonnet, myself passing tools to my teacher, like a nurse to a surgeon, meant that gloom was descending as our short two-car convoy rolled out of Neils garage. My tutor following me in his 4×4 to give the Landy a run up to the house and test out our/his handiwork, with tow rope stashed in the back of my car.

She’d still not right, misfiring under accelleration, and encountering a descending large lorry on a narrow uphill section, as we wound our way from Pontenova to Liñeiras, was not the ideal test I’d been hoping for. But she did make it to the house (and mercifully, half an hour later, back to Taramundi).

Mondays work on the barn could only be investigated by torchlight but from what I could see Facundo and his men have rebuilt the window and door surrounds in natural stone and completed the steelwork ready for the pouring of the concrete first floor on Wednesday (today is a holiday – All Saints). Is this really going to take him two months to finish?

The architect is also visiting site on Wednesday so I will be setting off early in the hope that my journey is free of incident and I can spend a full day working, watching, and discussing with the architect.

 

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Two motorbikes and a funeral

Rather than spend the entire morning stood around watching Facundo and his men continue their speedy renovation of our barn, on saturday I opted to start work on one of the many wars I’d planned for my own personal battle with the big house.

The arrangement of the rooms is such that it is possible to secure four of them by fitting locks to two doors, giving me somewhere secure to stash my tools, and also to ensure that no poor unsuspecting soul accidentally falls through one of the fifty percent of floorboards whose maximum load bearing is that of one of the many mice that have made our house their home.

Hasps and padlocks fitted, the next task on the list was to clear out the decades of long forgotten trash that had been accumulated by the previous owners. It should have been an easy task, especially as one of the fuller rooms is totally inaccessible for anyone but Indiana Jones due to its lack of floor.

I quickly reduced my expectations to clearing two of the four rooms.

In the first was a large chestnut wardrobe, so sturdy it felt like the house had been built around it. It was beyond repair so I opted for the ‘small pieces make easier carrying’ approach, but the claw hammer, and then a lump hammer made little impression.  In the end it took a sledge hammer for me to win the battle, although each of the dozen pieces that I eventually smashed it into, were each almost too heavy to carry outside.

The start of my scrap yard

A second wardrobe put up less resistance and then the interesting finds started. A motorike engine, handlebars, wheels, and then another engine, all for my scrap metal pile (oh how I wish the steel hungry gypsies in the white van were in Galicia rather than Yorkshire). I found a couple of old paper plans which bore no resemblance to the location of the house, x-rays of a foot and a chest of some long since deceased inhabitant, and the jewel in the crown, a tombstone.

Perfect for Halloween

I am guessing that the lady of the house died before her husband, and was placed in one of those cubby holes in the local cemetery. When he died they incarcerated him in the same cubby hole and got a new memorial carved bearing both their names. This one was then superfluous.

Still, it’s a bit creepy and it was quite a shock when I found it. Perfect for a Halloween blog though!

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Spoke too soon

It looks like I might have been a little too ‘cocky’ about how well the Landy was running. On the way back from the house today there was a distinct lack of power and after I stopped in Pontenova on the way home she really didn’t want to accelerate at all. Fortunately the locals, a couple of who I held up, were very civilised without even the hint of sounding a hooter or flashing their lights.

After finding a safe place to stop I had just about resigned myself to needing to call ‘international rescue’ when I managed to get enough revs to make it up the hill back to Taramundi. I’ve since been out twice to test whether she’s recovered, but it looks like I will be calling the local garage on Monday (puente allowing) to see if they can come and collect her and sort her out. As always, the pessimist in me is fearing the worst.

Much better news on the house. I can’t believe the progress that the builders have made since they started just a week ago. At this rate they will be finished in a couple of weeks!

Floor level reduced and new concrete floor laid

 

The worlds slowest crane driver delivers supplies

Facundo and Pepe putting in the shuttering for the first floor

There are also a few things to report about life away from the house;

  • You can buy a perfectly drinkable red wine for 80 cents a bottle (best served chilled), and a fantastic Albariño for under 4 euros
  • My new guilty pleasure is a nice ‘cafe con leche’ which costs 1 euro everywhere and most people drink it quickly and leave, no lingering here
  • The bread shop in Taramundi doesn’t open until after 9am on a Saturday, which is too late for breakfast
  • When Ramon said his house was ‘cold’, he wasn’t joking
  • The Spanish sun on your back, always puts a smile on your face
  • When you live alone you eat when you are hungry, not at set mealtimes
  • Spaniards in their fifties and sixties can make more noise than English teenagers, especially at 2 o’clock in the morning
  • Unshaven locals with deerstalkers and fluorescent jackets in the local cafe before nine on a Saturday won’t be spending the rest of the day flower arranging and will return by 9pm smelling of gunpowder

 

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Salt with everything

It’s a sight that I have never seen before. My Landy was parked at the back of a long queue of 4×4’s and MPV’s away from the vertically challenged saloons and estates, who after all had paid less than us.

It’s position for the thirty-two hour crossing was just under the shelter of the deck above, but exposed to the elements and the worst that the Bay of Biscay’s back-draft could throw at it. And when I returned, fingers crossed it would start after my last minute bodge, it was covered in a two millimetre coat of salt.

The door locks were rusty, the screens impenetrable to the human eye, and the brand new padlocks securing the doors on the back were seized. Even I know that salt and cars don’t make the best of bedfellows.

 

Quick stop at Roscoff, stood three metres above my car roof

But joy of joys she started, on the very first turn of the key, and only with a small whiff of petrol. I removed the chocks from all four wheels, feeling only slightly offended that mine was the only vehicle on the entire deck deemed incapable of maintaining its position without assistance. And we were ready for the off.

I passed customs and passport control without a hitch and as I left the port I was flagged down by John, a foot passenger I’d shared an onboard quiz with (and our two man team only lost by one point against a team of six) and who had just been told that his only way into Bilbao was by taxi at twenty euros. All he had left in his pocket was twenty euros, and that had to get him to Madrid. We lifted his suitcase, heavy enough to be concealing a body (but I didn’t ask), into the back of the Landy and off to the nearest station we went.

Interloper abandoned to the vagaries of Spanish public transport at 7am, with me feeling slightly guilty that I hadn’t taken him all the way to Bilbao, and it was just me and my steed for the long journey to Taramundi, through Cantabria, Asturias and finally a little bit of Galicia.

It was good to be back. The open roads, the decent weather (for now) and the smell of the eucalyptus occasionally succumbing to that of burning oil, LPG and occasionally petrol. We made good progress, and even managed to overtake one truck. But it took me back on the next hill and disappeared into the distance. Every now and then we managed 70mph, but it was only with a tail wind, and on downhill sections. a steady fifty-five was the norm.

Approaching Galicia the heavens opened and the Landys’ little windscreen wipers failed to be up to the task, but at least the worries I had about the salt eating into the bodywork were ebbing away.

A quick stop at the Chevrolet garage in Ribadeo to load up with liquid petroleum gas (to the tune of fifty euros for a full tank), and I was making the final 30km leg of the journey to my digs in Taramundi, the house of my estate agent, and ‘me casa’ for the next two months. Nine hours after driving off the boat I had reached my destination.

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It’s now friday and I’ve been here for three full days. I’ve so much more to tell, and pictures to share, and will blog much more over the weekend.

One final question, does anyone know how long it takes, after thirty-two hours of five metre waves, before you stop feeling as though you are on a boat?

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