The people of the fog

Our corner of Galicia is known throughout Spain as the ‘Land of the people of the fog‘. I know that it doesn’t paint a very good picture of our future home, but today was really the first time in a fortnight that we’ve had anything resembling real fog, and it had burned off by about noon.

Not knowing the local attitude, in this deeply catholic country, to working on a sunday I thought I’d see if my exploits up at the house would draw any disdain or criticism. Although when I got to the house there was still a river running through it after last nights heavy rain, postponing any thoughts of work, it did give me the opportunity to take a few photos of the spectacular localised fog.

Fog on the Eo

Clear above, and clear below

Soon to be restored grain store in the mist

As the fog lifted an earlier muffled sound could be heard more clearly. It seems that the church in Villamea (3km away) is wired for sound. If the congregation won’t go to church, then the church will go to the congregation, at least aurally.

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Lifting the roof

After waiting at home all day yesterday the parts for the Landrover were finally delivered at 17:30. According to the text message from DHL they were delivered, but the lack of parts in my hands told a different story. I tried the other three number sevens in Taramundi to be met with two ‘no answers’, and an octogenarian lambasting me from her now un-shuttered first floor window, for disturbing her Friday evening (I think).

Then the Spanish mobile rang, an occurrence which always fills me with some dread, and I was then summoned to the house by Facundo for a next day meeting at 9am. A most uncivilised time on a Spanish Saturday. He needed to discuss how high we are going to raise the roof to allow the headroom required by the architect. On Thursday we’d settled on twenty centimetres, but now he was suggesting an additional ten.

An additional twenty, just 10cm more to go

This morning brought torrential rain, and the fog for which this part of Galicia has a long tradition. The journey to the house included navigating many impromptu rivers across the tarmac, and today was one day that I was pleased to be in the Landrover, which incidentally didn’t miss a beat. Perhaps she prefers the wet.

Facundo was already at the house, we discussed the changes, and he magically presented me with an enveloped re-quote based on the newly agreed works. Perhaps he knew I’d agree, perhaps he had several new quotes prepared to cover all outcomes of our discussions. I suspect the former.

Larger roof tiles being conserved for later projects

Part of the roof is now off and some of the wall height increase is underway. Pepe and Alejandro were sensibly working inside the now dry house, beautifully crafting the internal window surrounds in natural stone, mined from the gable end of one of our other barns.

Here is a before and after photo of one of the barn walls (from different sides). You can see the difference that a craftsman makes!

Before

After

 

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Breaking and entering

When I arrived at the house this morning to find it totally devoid of workmen I hatched a plan that today would be the day that I investigate one of the last undiscovered places on the estate.

I’ve been in Spain for almost two weeks and the only thing which has been putting me off breaking into a small ruined  house, set into the rock face opposite the main house, was it’s close proximity to the current works. I was harbouring the fear that I’d look a bit of a weakling as I tried to smash down the door, wedged shut for decades by falling masonry, tiles and beams.

I quickly set to work. The crowbar was woefully inadequate but the lump hammer quickly did the job. More quickly than I had expected and as the door fell in I lost my precarious footing and landed in the house on top of the now see-sawing door. Looking up I saw that the room was full of debris and vegetation comprising ivy, brambles and a solitary laurel tree.

Door removed, ready for entry

When we bought the house we were told that this small edifice contained a bread oven, one of the essentials for any self-respecting mid-nineteenth century country home. A recent conversation with Miro (from the big green house down the road) suggested that the building was bigger than we first thought and contained not only a bread oven but also a bodega, but at that moment I couldn’t see anything other than vines.

Ten minutes with a pair of tree-loppers and I’d cleared a path to the back of the building and as I looked to my right there was no sign of a bread oven, my heart sank.

I moved back to the entrance doorway and decided to tackle the area immediately to my right, momentarily covered in an impenetrable curtain of ivy. Removing vine after vine a wall came into view, then an opening in the wall. Finally, accompanied by a fist-pump and a ‘get in’, to no-one other than myself, there was the mythical bread oven.

Bread oven revealed

After my short celebration I heard a crunch under my feet and looked down. I was stood on wine bottles, sadly long since empty.

Last remnants of a long forgotten bodega

A bread oven and a bodega, Miro’s seventy-four year old memory it seems, is pretty good!

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Crash, bang, wallop

If I ignore multiple unattended incidents with a white Fiat Panda in and around Teruel in 1989 (another story), then today saw me lose my unblemished Spanish driving record. I’ll come to that in later.

The Landy made it up to the house again but the spluttering is definitely getting worse. I also managed to get the choke stuck half way out so by the time I got there she was running very rich and coming close to drowning in her own petrol. I cleaned the points again, using my fingernail, and hoped she’d be better on the way home.

Today was concrete day, and you could sense the excitement, Facundo was even getting a bit tetchy with his staff. I completed the cleaning of the last secured room in the big house, removed the rotten floorboards and cut a new ‘prop’ to replace the one that had turned to dust as I tapped it with the broom during my cleaning. A quick wander around the estate found an ideal seven-foot long candidate, and ten minutes of ‘tree saw’ later the angles were correct and it was wedged into place, supporting a major beam which through either wall movement or timber shrinkage had ceased to rest on the top of the wall many years ago.

Then the concrete arrived to shouts of ‘hormigón, hormigón’ (it just means concrete). One hundred wheel barrows full later and Pepe, Facundo and Alejandro were re-distributing, agitating and flattening.

The team finish up the newly installed first floor

We how have an upper floor, the opening out to the balcony has been re-opened, and I’ve met the carpenter (Jose) and agreed on the balcony and even the balustrades. I’ve also agreed that the walls should be raised by another 20cm (I didn’t really have much choice) so that we have a minimum of two metres clearance upstairs. I think I’ve minimised the additional cost by allowing Facundo to take down part of the gable of one of the ruined barn walls and use the stone.

Now, back to the accident.

I decided to pop to the local supermarket, which boasts three aisles of cleaning liquids and just one of food, to stock up on supplies to see me into the weekend (and hopefully to the new car parts). On returning to the Landy there were no vehicles behind and just a small gap in front. In the time it took me to start her up, a young lady in an aged Saxo pulled up so close behind me that when I checked my mirrors prior to reversing I couldn’t see her.

I set off backwards, felt a little more resistance than I expected, and then saw the blue Saxo emerge from the large Landrover blind-spot. I dismounted, for there is no other way to exit a Landrover,  and she emerged from her car to survey the damage.

In these situations you always look at your own car first, and there was not a scratch, blemish, or paint scraping on the old girl. The Saxo had a slightly dented number plate and a little scratch to the plastic bumper. I explained I didn’t speak Spanish, she shrugged her shoulders and said ‘no es nada’ (it’s nothing), got her bag out of her car and went into the supermarket. You have to love this country, in the UK that would have at least ended in a punch-up, and quite possibly required the attendance of the constabulary.

I guess that the problem is that there are not too many other English registered blue Landrover ’90’ with Ifor Williams aluminium backs in Aturias/Galicia. I suspect she’ll be able to find me quite easily if she changes her mind.

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The Spanish way of working

There is a mis-impression amongst the English that the Spaniards work ethos is enshrined in a ‘mañana’ (tomorrow) attitude, where hard work is avoided in favour of long coffee breaks, even longer lunches, and an afternoon siesta. The Spanish work ethic is questioned and questionable, with the mere mention of a Spanish builder often greeted with smirks and shakes of the head.

My boys (Facundo, Pepe, Vladimir, Roman and Alejandro) are doing their utmost to dispel these stereotypes, and are flying the flag for a highly productive and impressive Galician building profession.

I spent the day at the house. I arrived just after eight with the boys already hard at work, and I left just after six, with them still going at it (I wasn’t, I was shattered). Admittedly they took an hour and a half for lunch, but not a single break for a coffee in the entire day. They will have stayed until dusk, as they have every other day I’ve been up there, putting in a ten hour day.

Newly pointed walls using traditional methods Pepe reconstructing the door return in local stone

Alejandro turning an old doorway into a new window

The hard graft is now finished and the true artisanship has started. Pace has apparently slowed as they lay in new stone around the newly formed windows and undertake the painstaking and detailed pointing using ancient materials and techniques. Their detailed work is a delight to watch.

Roman doing a bit of pointing

The results are mightily impressive. At the present time I am certain that we have chosen the correct builders to sympathetically restore our barn into a residence of beauty. I am very impressed with progress so far.

Next stop; concrete for the first floor and then taking the roof off.

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