Light at the end of the tunnel

There may be some light at the end of one of our project tunnels. Last friday evening Amanda drew to my attention a newspaper article in ‘El Mundo’ (other Spanish newspapers are available) about some changes which the Galician Xunta voted through on Thursday the 12th May 2011 specifically aimed at giving a helping hand to rural tourism.

Tourism, it seems, is the only growth sector in the struggling Galician economy and it grew last year, bucking a negative trend in all other industries. The target is to develop the industry to a level where it generates 10% of Galicias’ GDP, and employs 10% of the citizens.

The detail is, of course, in Spanish but what I can glean from my ‘Janet & John’ Castillian, coupled with the invaluable services of Babel Fish, enables me (hopefully not mistakenly) to conclude the following;

  • The Xunta have approved a draft new ‘Law on Tourism’ which will enable the creation of ‘geodestinos’, interesting places which are outside city limits, in old or interesting properties, which can benefit from less constrained planning and licensing laws.
  • Apartments and holiday homes will no longer be regulated by the ‘Tenancies Act’.
  • Rural hotels (up to forty beds) will be replaced by ‘Inns’ with less rigorous legislation.
  • Prior permission to begin operating as a rural tourism business is no longer required, just a declaration which the Xunta will check within three months of starting operation.

So setting up the business looks as though it could be more straight-forward, and less tied up in red tape, but unfortunately no explicit mention of; speeding up the planning process, relaxing planning requirements and constraints, or making grants available to rural tourism businesses. We need to get our architect/gestoria on the case and understand their interpretation.

So there is light at the end of one of our journeys tunnels, lets just hope it’s not the lights of an oncoming train!

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‘The Way’ – A biased review

I’ve managed to get a sneak preview of the new Martin Sheen/Emilio Estevez film ‘The Way’ which opens across the United Kingdom this Friday night (the 13th May). I’ll try and review it here without spoilers, and giving away nothing more than you’d already know from watching the trailers that are widely available on the Internet, and have been signposted previously on this blog.

A 'Must See' Film

I’ll start with a confession. You are not going to get a Mark Kermode/Jonathan Ross type film review from me as  I am bound to be somewhat biased.  I desperately want this film to been viewed by everyone and anyone, and for it to gain critical acclaim. Fundamentally it is about my beloved Spain, and especially Galicia, the place where my heart lies and where my head spends most of its time. I am cleary going to marvel at the magnificent landscapes, and delight in the many references to Spanish culture, and wonder at the mysticism of the camino.

For an independent perspective the film is currently rated as 7.2/10 on IMDB and 90% on Rotten Tomatoes with nine out of ten reviewers giving it a ‘fresh’ status. Compared with the majority of the current dross around at the cinemas this makes it potentially Oscar winning material (although I am sure it won’t get a nomination).

The film tugs at your heart strings from the opening few frames and even a stone-hearted individual (according to Amanda) like myself had a tear in the corner of my eye. There are moving moments throughout the whole 140 minutes as the cast slowly grows and strengthens through incremental additions of  ‘Peregrinos’ (pilgrims).

It’s even a film that my Mother would like (her normal staple diet is romatic comedies) and I can assure her than no-one dies, not a spot of blood is spilt, and there is very little swearing. If I had not already seen it I may even be tempted to take her, without any fear of recriminations.

Yorick van Wageningen (Joost), Deborah Unger (Sarah) and James Nesbitt (Jack) are all deep and interesting characters who develop through the film, all contrasting and conflicting with the lead character Tom, excellently played by Martin Sheen. The film is essentially a road movie, but at a much slower pace, and although the journey is kept interesting you are left thinking that the director could perhaps have done a little more with the wealth of characters at his disposal.

What the film did achieve, I am sure much to the delight of the Galician Tourist Board, was to make me want to walk the Camino. Not from the French border like Tom did (I’m not that fit), but perhaps starting at Ribadeo. Not for any religious reason but for the experience, much like many of the characters in the film. And I never thought I’d crave a walk which didn’t involve a set of clubs and a little white dimpled ball.

So I urge you to find out where this film is showing and get yourself a ticket. I’m certain that you’ll enjoy it, and perhaps you’ll be encouraged to take a walk across northern Spain with your world in your back-pack.

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Rods at the ready

Nothing gets the blood flowing through the veins like a full on competition, man (or woman) pitted against man (or woman), human kind against the elements, a coveted trophy at stake. To see a whole town gripped and mesmerized by the thrill of the chase must be some spectacle, and if you were in Pontenova last weekend you could have enjoyed, and even joined in, the excitement.

As the fishing season started, last weekend saw the 33rd annual Pontenova ‘Festa de Troita’ (Trout Festival) which this year boasted seventy-one competitors, in twenty classes, who between them landed 120 fish weighing over 26 kilos with the largest measuring 42.8cm in length. The outright winners were; José Manuel Corral (Lugo) and Teresa Corral, and mightily chuffed they must have been too as they raised aloft the trophy.

Historical Image Pinched from www.pontenova.es

But the weekend wasn’t just about the fishing.

There was a 6km road race with tens of entrants, and a course including running over the newest of the new bridges. There were cooking demonstrations (predominantly of trout), a cultural exhibition, and several stalls showing the best that Pontenova has to offer, including rally cars.

The weekend also signalled the start of the salmon fishing season so it’s rods at the ready and off to the river banks.

Shame we were stuck in Huddersfield!

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Camino popularity about to boom

As I wait patiently for the opening of the new, and much heralded (on this blog at least), UK release of the new Martin Sheen film ‘The Way’, and keep my fingers crossed that it is a general release and not confined to a few arthouse cinemas, I wonder what kind of additional footfall this film may create for the Caminos next year.

Opens 13th May 2011

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While digging for more information about the film I stumbled across a site ‘On Foot In Spain’ which offers a number of guided walking tours across Galicia with stops at interesting viewing spots and evenings/nights in out of the way monestaries and casa rural. They aren’t cheap – the next trip advertised is €2,695 for eleven nights – but it does seem like a very civilised way to do things. There are plenty more companies around offering similar tours and at all costs and points on the comfort spectrum.

Traditionally the original pilgrims walking the ‘ways’ would do so without spending any money, or by begging, or receiving alms from christian wellwishers. Many of the hostels along the routes can still be lodged in for a few euros a night and are fine so long as you are happy to sleep in mixed-sex dormitories an share washing and eating facilities with many of your fellow shell wearers.

The new film will likely swell the numbers of Camino walkers beyond the 100,000 who have regularly made some sort of pilgrimage for each of the last few years (ranging from 1,500 to 100km in length). Not bad to say that the figures had dropped down to a few thousand per year in the early 1990’s.

A colleague who was out in Santiago de Compostela earlier this month told of large numbers of great unwashed sandal wearing pilgrims on foot and bicycle arriving in the main square in front of the cathedral, and queuing for entry, and we’re only just starting prime walking season.

The film can only be a positive influence and will futher demonstrate the breathtaking beauty of Spains green lung. I am bursting to see it, if only for a much overdue view of Galicia.

As far as I am concerned, the more the merrier.

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Spain appears to be shut

As the clock hit six in Galicia last night, five o’clock here in the UK, my mailbox was once again full to overflowing with Spanish e-mails.

It was like Christmas Eve, not for their contents but because their despatchers were trying to get them out of their minds and consciences so that they could mentally shut down for the start of Semana Santa (Holy Week) with the first celebration of maundy thursday.

One of them was from our solicitor Inma and contained scans of the registration document from the Catastro (Cadastre). This has a small error on it, allocating a piece of land that we own to someone that we’ve never heard of nor ever seen mentioned in any previous documentation. It’s not a show stopper, but a small worry, so we responded this morning with an attached read receipt. BUnsurprisingly it has not been acknowledged.

If you can’t beat them, join them (I’ve already mentally packed my bags for home).

As a devoutly Catholic country (although increasingly less so) it is no surprise that Easter gets the full treatment of bank holidays, feasts, processions and all kinds of other goodies. The only places open will be the bars, cafes and restaurants.

When we were in Santiago de Compostela at this time last year we happened upon a procession similar to those happening all over Galicia and indeed Spain, last night, tonight and on sunday. 

One of many processions

The first thoughts of a non-Spaniard when seeing the ceremonial robes, with their pointed hats (Capirote), is to draw a parallel with the heinous KKK (a most anti-Catholic organisation). This couldn’t be further from the truth. These hats are designed to hide the faces of the wearer for humilities sake and as a penance, but historically were also worn by those found guilty during the Spanish Inquisition to humiliate the wearer.

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Hopefully our e-mails will get a response next week, at least the Spanish won’t be taking the day off for the royal wedding! Although if someone suggested it……

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